The Foundation of Every Stitch: A Look Inside the Studio

Step inside the subdued hubbub of our Richmond studio where the story of every garment begins. While the final product is bright and whimsical, the process of bringing the pieces to life involves a great deal of careful preparation and craftsmanship.

The centerpiece of our workspace is a massive Phillocraft cutting table. Stretching 16-feet long and 72 inches wide, it provides an expansive to lay out the fabric for our designs. For those of you who have followed our journey since 2007, you know that quality is never accidental. It starts here, on this steel-framed foundation, where we transform rolls of fabric into the building blocks of childhood memories.

Preparation and the Wash

We begin by determining the lay of the fabric and calculating exactly how much material is needed for the cut. This is a precise stage of the process. For our lined cotton corduroy capes, we cut the layers to size while adding a few extra inches to account for the natural contraction of the fibers.

Not every fabric requires a trip to the laundry. Our soft poly-fleece, sturdy wools, and the materials chosen for our pinafores are not washed since uneven shrinkage is not a concern for these garments.  However, for the cotton and corduroy destined for our lined capes, pre-shrinking is an absolute necessity.

We take these lengths of fabric to a laundromat to be laundered. By using only unscented detergent, we protect sensitive skin and ensure no artificial fragrances linger on the fibers. Instead of using traditional dryer sheets, we rely on natural wool dryer balls to keep the textures soft and supple. This careful, extra step ensures that your garment is easy-care, machine-washable.

The Art of the Cut

Once the fabric returns to the studio clean and shrunk, it is time to create the "lay." For materials that come in large rolls and do not require washing, we use an industrial spreader to roll out the fabric, layering it into tall, even plies. For our pre-shrunk pieces, we lay the layers into plies by hand to ensure every grain line is perfectly straight.

This stacking allows for consistency across every piece we produce. To keep the foundation steady, we tack the fabric down with long staples, ensuring nothing shifts during the process. We use a  china marker (currently using yellow ones!) to hand-draw the pattern outlines onto the top layer. Once the map is set, an industrial round knife glides through the thick layers. It is a loud, powerful, and somewhat scary tool, but it allows for the precision required to ensure perfection.

By taking these extra steps, we ensure that the charm of the garment remains intact for years to come. This "nuts and bolts" side of the studio may be less colorful than the finished patchwork, but it is the secret to creating clothing that lasts.